The People’s Wine Press
Have you ever found a quote that completely and utterly summed up a feeling that you’ve had but you couldn’t necessarily put it into words? After Robert Parker’s crack at the wine blogging industry last week, I’ve had a ball of frustration inside me sitting idle without the appropriate words to describe its composition. Sticky, thick and irrational, I felt bound by my nervous system, encapsulating my logic, until now.
Over the past few weeks, I’ve been enthralled by Jeff Shaara’s book, “Rise to Rebellion”, giving words, feelings and much needed context to a war I vaguely understood in high school textbooks: The Revolutionary War.
Nearing the end of the book, Benjamin Franklin, physically worn from years of fighting an uphill intellectual battle over the freedom of the colonists from English rule, sits wearily in his bed and reads the very first edition of “Common Sense“. Authored by Thomas Paine, the first edition of the pamphlet was published anonymously on January 10, 1776, as an inspiration for colonists reject British rule when many remained timid with indecision. As taken from the pamphlet:
There is something exceedingly ridiculous in the composition of monarchy; it first excludes a man from the means of information, yet empowers him in cases where the highest judgment is required. The state of a king shuts him off from the world, yet the business of a king requires him to know it thoroughly; wherefore the different parts, by unnaturally opposing and destroying each other; prove the whole character to be absurd and useless.
To me, Robert Parker embodies the monarchy within the wine world. For decades, we’ve turned to him for guidance, direction and support in helping us choose the highest quality wines. When we were hesitant in price, grape varietal, region or quality, we bowed to his whims, sacrificing our own personal tastes for those he deemed worthy with his almighty palate. He fed us with his reviews, fought off poor wines with the flick of his pen and stood tall in the wine industry as the leader of the people.
But if the people disagreed, they had only two choices, send a letter to the editor by post with no guarantee it will be read, or simply avoid Parker’s reviews altogether. Neither were optimal. And like any good monarchy, information was kept limited and attention was only to those deemed “worthy”.
Time moved on, and the people created a tool where their voices were finally heard. They were given a soapbox to stand tall, to express their own personal tastes based on whatever criteria was important for them. Democracy changed places with monarchy, allowing the people, regardless of their race, color, creed, education, class, gender, age or credentials, to share their personal experiences with wine.
Wine blogging was born.
“Change is rarely acceptable unless it comes complete with an alternative that people can understand”- Benjamin Franklin from the “Rise to Rebellion”.
The monarchy grew frightened of losing its stronghold over the people. It knew of this wine blogging world, but instead of walking with the people to understand their needs and desires, it remained high on its throne, allowing ignorance to breed. Eventually, it lashed out with harsh criticisms and mistruths, claiming that none of these “wine blobbers” could topple the empire.
The empire has been thrown, and the people have chosen a new path.
But with any transition of power comes confusion, growing pains and questions. This is why the European Wine Bloggers Conference was born, a “congress” if you will, of like-minded people eager to create both order and innovation in the online wine world. A place to safely share their fears without ridicule, to support the process of discovery without suppression, to pave a new path where the voices of many are stronger than the few.
I am thankful for Parker’s reaction to the Wine Bloggers Conference. I am proud to support the consumors right to choose from the hundreds, if not thousands, of diverse voices on the internet – each unique in their language, culture, palate and perspective. And if I can further support not only the right for the consumer to choose from the myriad of voices speaking on wine, but to bolster their confidence in their own palate, I will.
Freedom of information is an extension of freedom of speech where the medium of expression is the Internet.
Cheers,
Gabriella Opaz
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April 29th, 2009 at 11:42 am
You couldn't write it better Gabriella, my compliments!
Stefy
)
April 29th, 2009 at 11:45 am
Ooh, I'm a revolutionary! Wonder whether we could have a Boston Wine Party and dump pallets of over-extracted Californian Cabernet Sauvignon and Bordeaux into the Bay?
April 29th, 2009 at 11:51 am
You always had power. If you don't like what Parker recommends, don't buy the wines. He got power — which even he at times said was too much — because he was good and trusted. There were far too few competitors in those areas, far too many taking all the freebies and junkets they could find. Blogging is good, but don't dump on Parker. He's good, too.
April 29th, 2009 at 12:08 pm
Michael, my intention in this article was two-fold. It is of no doubt that the people gave Parker his power and prestige, but it is a position he accepted. And with that comes a certain level of professionalism, which I fear wasn't displayed in his comments within his forum post regarding the WBC and towards bloggers. As I am co-founder of an organization that I helped to create for the people, and sincerely, by the people, I take issue that our intentions were anything less than honorable in the creation of the EWBC.
Secondarily, Parker has added an incredible amount to the community, and his contributions are not lost on me. But the reason why I am passionate about this medium, is because the internet is the great equalizer. It provides all of us with a voice that we may not have had prior. Equally true with the creation of Wine Blogger, it was our intention to show the power, internationally, of our combined voices.
I want Parker to be part of that combined voice. I want his voice to one of the many, but I no longer want there to be only one voice we hold ourselves to.
April 29th, 2009 at 12:35 pm
Gabriella,
Couldn't agree more. Parker has succeeded in forcing the industry to produce big jammy wines, stimulating gross price inflation and steering the consumer to purchase based on a subjective score rather than on their own tastes and food pairings. Your essay is brilliantly composed!!
Glen Macdonald
April 29th, 2009 at 1:11 pm
Thank you Glen, but interestingly, this same argument I proposed could also be applied to the wine blogging world. All of us need to take responsibility for the part we play in the industry, remaining in touch with the people, with our impact, our credibility and with our transparency. Despite the delivery, I applaud Parker for his willingness to bring this to forefront. By the end of the day, there is not perfect solution, blogging included.
April 29th, 2009 at 1:22 pm
Hi Gabriella:
I find myself disagreeing with your characterization of Parker as a monarch. Though he may be the most influential wine writer, he does not rule alone. There are other influential wine writers as well, for example some of those from the Wine Spectator. To me, it might be better to consider them an Aristocracy.
As most commonly used, an Aristocracy usually refers to an elite ruling body, and often with a hereditary element. Though if we return to the terms roots, in ancient Greek, it meant “rule by the best.” Though that has drastically changed over the centuries.
What many might refer to as the old school wine writers, like Parker, have long formed such an “elite” group, generally resistant to outsiders. And, there may even be a hereditary element as well. Consider how Parker brought in new writers to the Wine Advocate, to follow in his shoes.
I don't believe the “empire” or “aristocracy” has yet been overthrown. They still wield great power though some inroads have been made by bloggers. There is still a lengthy road ahead for bloggers. As you said, there is still “confusion, growing pains and questions.” And it is great that the blogger conferences are trying to help with those issues.
And let us hope we don't eventually get torn apart by a blogger Civil War.
April 29th, 2009 at 4:08 pm
It's a good post. I think this is exactly the way the wind is blowing.
April 29th, 2009 at 4:26 pm
I understand Mr Parker's point. He is the most respected wine writer and he wants to continue in that position. With the emerging of the wine social media he had two options: to join the community and continue his leadership or to fight the community and destroy it. He preferred the second. Now it is our job to show him he was wrong.
April 29th, 2009 at 7:55 pm
Gabriella, you are none but a radical, an extremist, a mutineer! And this colonist appreciates thy fine parable.
April 30th, 2009 at 2:27 am
You bring up a very good point Richard, and I appreciate you putting it out here. And for the record, Tom, and anyone else in this particular camp, is welcome with open arms to the EWBC in Lisbon. I am far from interested in creating a civil war. What I would rather foster is a joint effort to reach the same goal – further developing ways to better educate the consumer.
April 30th, 2009 at 9:14 am
Not sure if it came across sufficiently, but my Civil War comment was meant as a joke. Just considering how the Revolutionary War was eventually followed by the U.S. Civil War. I don't think there is any Civil War right now, or that anyone is pushing for one.
May 4th, 2009 at 1:34 pm
Excellent piece Gabriella!
The days of influential wine critics like Robert Parker are numbered. Sure, they will continue to have suckers for followers but, sooner or later, most wine lovers are smart enough to find the courage to start making their own choices and walk away from dependency on 90-point ratings. Wine blogs have certainly made wine reviews democratic!
May 8th, 2009 at 12:22 pm
Luís de Camões, big and not so well loved Portuguese writer said “Times change, wills change. The being changes, the trust changes; the all word is composed by changes, always taking new qualities”.
I think that for some people change is just so hard… it’s easier to be against that to work with… just don’t give it a lot of attention…
Honestly I think you speak for different audience, different target… yours is bigger than his and after all… it’s you that are changing the wine industry! I’ve been reading the things you and other famous wine bloggers write and it’s just great to see the comments that people leave, how interested they are… you communicate with them and that what is important and new!
I was present at your workshop in Essência do Vinho and it was the first time I heard about Gary and other famous wine bloggers… You made me open my eyes to a new reality and I just have to thank you for that.
One of my concerns at the moment is to inform consumers and small producers (the big already know about you) about your job and I’m doing it with a lot of pleasure.
Keep on the good work!
May 11th, 2009 at 3:39 am
Tania, thank you for your continued support! We realize that it's difficult to convey the message regarding the importance of social media and blogging, but it's extremely important if they want their brand to be easily accessible to the international market. And as always, if there is ever any questions you have, please never hesitate to contact us.
May 11th, 2009 at 4:56 pm
viva la revolution!